This walk was organised and led by Rupert B as a CBC walk:
(Sat 10 - Sun 25 February 2007: Tasmania – Eastern Arthurs and Mt Anne Circuit – S/R Southwest Tas is stunning country – the terrain, the views, and sometimes the challenges! But it just needs persistence to get unforgettable rewards, and the ascents of Federation Peak and Mt Anne are optional. We’ll go in via Farmhouse Creek, giving each walk about a week, going slow and steady. Contact me by year-end for details. Leader: Rupert B.).
Background Reading
South West Tasmania by John Chapman.
9 days of magnificently awesome scenery; human and natural drama; and (for me) individual mental and physical challenges to and beyond breaking point on one of the world's more demanding bushwalks.
Day 1 - Saturday 10 February 2007
Last creature comforts as I kissed my wife good-bye at 5.30am, struggled out the door with pack, re-supply pack for Mt Anne and end of walk suitcase and into a waiting hire car. Quite pleased with weight of pack - around 19kgm with 10 days food on board, but fuel and water to add. Flight to Melbourne where I recognised Dave on the same flight, then to Hobart. Three breakfasts today. Rupert was there to pick us up and the excitement began to rise. We looked for gas and Shellite fuel in the outer suburbs, then Rupert dropped us in town to shop at Mountain Designs while he picked up Margaret and dropped off our post-walk gear. The four of us then drove to the car hire place to meet Bob and Jenny (thus making 6 in the party) and Malcolm who was to generously drive us in the hired people mover to Farmhouse Creek. Down the Huon Valley to Geeveston for lunch, then on towards the air walk and left along dirt roads to finally arrive at Farmhouse Creek, the SE start of the walk.
We picked up a couple of litres of water and headed away at 3pm. A false start of a km up the old vehicle track to see a tiger snake, then returned to hang a W turn along the creek (as the track notes actually say). Immediately into 'real Tasmania', in my mind - a useful footpad beside a tinkling creek through shady rain forest (see pic 1). Mud and a couple of leeches soon appeared. A stop at 5.45pm, then across Farmhouse Creek, collecting more water for a higher and dryer camp. The track continued through cutting grass and a lot more mud. Made camp at 8pm. Not quite sure where, but around Rainforest Camp. A quick tea of soup and instant chocolate mousse, shaken not stirred (a success) and in bed by 9pm. I think Dave was even earlier than that, as he told us a couple of days later that he'd celebrated his 19th birthday the night before. A warm night at first and a very effective new sleeping bag, so started in just the liner.
Day 2 - Sunday 11 February 2007
The usual daily routine began - up at 6.30am, breakfast, pack and away by 8am.
At around 9.30am Jenny slipped and damaged her knee. A simple accident, but with huge consequences. We spent some time deciding on a plan of action - in the end we walked back 300m to a clearing where tents could be pitched and Bob graciously volunteered to stay so that the rest of us could go on under Rupert's leadership. Assistance from lone walker Chris and another party of 3 going the other way. The plan was for Jenny to rest a day, then try to walk out with Bob's assistance. As it turned out, the knee damage was more severe. Bob pulled the string on his EPIRB around 9am the next day, a rescue helicopter appeared within a couple of hours and winched Jenny, Bob and gear up. They were at Hobart Hospital by midday. Of course, we knew none of the detail till I returned to Canberra early; however by Wednesday we suspected what may have happened based on reports of helicopter activity from 2 rock climbers Dave met on Federation Peak and, finally, most was confirmed by the paramedic involved in the retrieval when we met him at another accident a few days later.
Mountains began to appear as we pressed on, with views to Mt Hopetoun suggesting an inkling of what was to come. Lunch at Cracroft Junction around 12.15pm.
Out onto button grass and heath along the Cracroft River, with mud holes knee-deep in places. Steeply down and more steeply up a side creek to our first view of Federation Peak (see pic 2). It was utterly awesome to me (so how majestic must be its Creator!). And helpful Chris in the morning had put the wind up me with hints of what we were to face! We stopped around 4pm and made camp at Paperbark Camp (see pic 3). A few march flies about during the sunny day (but they don't bite much) and plenty of mozzies in the evening near water (to which I react poorly).
Day 3 - Monday 12 February 2007
An early pic of the sun catching the top of Federation Peak (see pic 4), then away for a good 2km through rainforest, mud, cutting grass and creeks. A break at 9.15am at the base of Moss Ridge.
The Moss Ridge climb was one of the most challenging and exhausting I've ever tackled. At times I felt like stopping out of fear and exhaustion. Federation Peak loomed closer and closer as we inched our way up (see pic 5). 3 pack hauls were required; then a near-vertical climb with packs (see pic 6 - there's 3 people in that pic, stacked vertically up that slot!). By the time we reached the next pack haul, we had our team work down pat - young, strong Dave jumps on my shoulders and clambers up with a rope to belay; I pray then climb up; Rupert ties on a pack and we haul it up; once all packs are up, Rupert and Marg clamber up and we're all exhausted. As pack haulers, we were soon aware of who had the heaviest pack - but had no argument when medication, tasty biscuits, energy boosting lollies and other goodies were shared from it by our trusty leader at appropriate moments. We all ran out of water before the top.
We reached lower Berchervaise Plateau, then onto upper Berchervaise Plateau around 5pm, having covered a bit over 2km in the 7.5hrs. Camping platforms on the fragile alpine environment and a water hole cheered us and we were soon set up and I was recovered sufficiently to appreciate the magnificent surroundings. The view above to the northern face of Federation Peak was huge (see pic 7) and the range of flowers beautiful (see pic 8). We wandered to the W end of the plateau and could see across the short distance to Thwaites Plateau, yet it was a day's walk away.
Day 4 - Tuesday 13 February 2007
The day dawned fine and clear, like the previous day. Enormous early morning views N to distant peaks over fog-filled valleys. The gigantic crags, including the Devils Thumb, still imposed above.
Rupert consulted the party as to our preferences, then wisely suggested a short return walk up to the N base of Federation Peak and the beginning of the Southern Traverse. How glad I was, when I saw the slot which marked the Southern Traverse route (see pic 9) and also the beginning of a rock climbing route. Stupendous views S to Precipitous Bluff and the coast by New River Lagoon.
So we returned to pick up our gear and tackle the only remaining way forward - down to Lake Gaston (one of the Northern Lakes) and up the mighty Forest Chute under the huge N face of Federation Peak. We left at 10.30am, clambering down a wash which turned into a growing watercourse. Around 240m down over 400m horizontal. We then had to push through dense myrtle beech rain forest round the lake to try and pick up a line to begin the Forest Chute. No tape or other markers, just Rupert's unerring navigation. Incredible to be walking along huge fallen tree trunks and tangles of horizontal scrub metres off the ground. We lost some time due to small injuries and a search for water.
The climb up Forest Chute was taxing, probably 360m up over 500m horizontal. Another awkward and exhausting pack haul at the top. A view back down our way up at pic 10. We covered another 1km and 100m up to reach Thwaites Plateau. Along flag-stoned track and boardwalk (to protect and allow the moor to recover) to the N end, where tent sites were cut into the 2m high scoparia. A search for water revealed none. We each had 1 litre for tea and breakfast. Another huge day.
Day 5 - Wednesday 14 February 2007
Once again, the sunrise was magnificent and the views astounding. We set off at 9am with day gear, back S along and up Thwaites Plateau to the Y-intersection of our track with the Southern Traverse and the Hanging Lake track. We found enough water in a nearby pool to allow us to head for Federation Peak. A lone walker came down, strangely quiet and not having attempted the peak alone.
We set off along the Southern Traverse, relatively easy at first, but soon becoming a series of near-vertical climbs and descents around tower blocks and ridge-line scrambles dropping away to nothing on each side. At least three times I wanted to quit, but pushed through to the next fear barrier. Of course, this is just me - I hate B(lood), H(eights) and W(ater). There was plenty of H and W and I didn't want to leave any B. Pic 11 says it all for me. Even Chapman says '... climb very steeply with great care ...'. On queue, the hilltop cloud rolled in and the mighty crags above were partly shrouded (see pic 12).
We reached the start of the Direct Ascent to the Summit around 11am. I got about 10m up before stopping, Rupert a little further, Marg perhaps a third of the way up before her legs were too short to continue to climb. Dave made the top by himself - congratulations! Even while we waited for his return the view down to Lake Geeves kept my adrenaline coursing (see pic 13). At last Dave gave a shout we could hear, sighs of relief were breathed and he appeared as a speck far above us. Down by 12.30pm, bringing 2 rock climbers with him who had come up the N face that morning. With legs like tree trunks and draped in ropes and jangling with gear, they commented 'that was a good climb' as a compliment to Dave, then trotted off back along the Southern Traverse for a cuppa at their Bechervaise camp site.
At least 8 flights a day overhead, with walkers being flown in to/out from Melaleuca and scenic flights. At one stage one went by below us.
We retraced our steps (me on all fours most of the time) - ever-present magnificent views as we returned (see pic 14). By 2pm we were back at the track junction. After lunch Dave picked up water from the hole and returned to camp. We others wandered to Hanging Lake to pick up water where I secured my future for at least another 12 hours by drinking the lake dry and carrying back 7 litres. In an easy area becoming familiar I wandered back alone to our scoparia-surrounded camp site, the 2km taking around 1hr.
Rupert's magic pack produced a spare AAA battery for my MP3 player. The weather appeared to be closing in and the night was a little cooler. Everything stinks - socks, clothes, me!
Day 6 - Thursday 15 February 2007
The 'track' (there has to be a better word for describing sometimes taped and sometimes cairned footpads which are either mud holes in rainforest or exposed near-vertical ascents and descents over huge rocky crags!) today took us through the Four Peaks. The mist was clearing from their tops as we pushed through. One pack lower and two pack hauls, one of which needed three separate stages. Huge views back to Thwaites Plateau and the cloud streaming from Federation Peak. Overcast all morning, but it cleared and the sun brought back the march flies. Views down to Lake Bewsher.
After lunch we tracked W of The Gables, with views to the W to glimpses of Bathurst Harbour. By 2pm we could see ahead to Goon Moor and, further on, The Needles and The Dial. We arrived at the Goon Moor camping platforms at 2.45pm. A palace, with 4 platforms each on a different level, accommodating 2 tents each. In the middle a water tank - with water in it. We decided to stay.
The next episode of human drama unfolded, with Michael coming in from the N for water. Simon, a party member, had fallen and broken his leg and the other 2 in his party had left to walk out for help. The accident site was about 15mins N. We offered assistance and Rupert and Dave later went to see if there was anything they could do. Some time later we heard a helicopter. Marg and I headed down towards the open Goon Moor and we could see it hovering around Stuart Saddle, then further down and it finally landed on the Moor. They were responding to an EPIRB (Michael's alarm raisers had met Frank and Barbara at Stuart Saddle and they had the EPIRB). I had a chat with the winch-guy, then headed up to the accident site. A paramedic and rescue guy had already been dropped there. It took some time to treat Simon and secure him on a stretcher. Their remaining 3 packs were sorted and the chopper came in. No room to set down, so Michael and the packs were taken from a precarious hovering position and having to step up to board (see pic 15), dropped at Goon Moor, then Simon and the paramedic winched up. The rescue guy then casually stepped aboard, back to Goon Moor to load balance and away to Hobart Hospital in 20 minutes (see pic 16). Remote area walking needs to be carefully considered.
After tea we climbed a nearby knoll to watch the sun go down over Mt Rugby and Bathurst Harbour (see pic 17). A special moment, one of many making all the effort so worthwhile. I was there in March-April 06.
Day 7 - Friday 16 February 2007
Away at 7.30am for a long day. Down and up through The Needles, where we met Frank and Barbara. Views of Federation Peak sadly receded, but there is so much more to the Eastern Arthurs than just this dominant feature. We reached the Stuart Saddle camping platforms just below the actual saddle at 10am and stopped for morning tea. We left a walking pole we'd found, having guessed it might belong to Frank. We later heard that it was dropped back to him from a Forestry helicopter as it flew overhead evacuating walkers from the bushfires.
On through The Boiler Plates (see pic 18), passing a lone and beautiful Tasmanian Christmas Bell by the track (see pic 19). Glimpses NE to the Arthur Plains.
By 11.45am we had reached the top of Luckmans Lead, the descent from the Eastern Arthurs. A slightly poignant time, as this was really farewell to the tops. Rocky at first, the Lead soon took us down button grass and heath ridges (see pic 20). In places the track was cut down 1.5m and it seemed like you were nearly walking underground. This descent really tested my knees and ability to cope with the heat and humidity. There was no shade and I was drinking a lot of water. Through Pass Creek and other creek lines. A thunderstorm chased us and finally caught us near a poor camping area, so Rupert went forward to sus out Strike Creek. He returned and we walked on to there to camp for the night. More thunderstorms rolling around to the NW, but no more rain on us. A long day and not a happy one for me. I was starting to go off my tucker and (as Rupert correctly suggested) drinking too much water and not replacing body salts.
Day 8 - Saturday 17 February 2007
Another long and hot day over the Arthur Plains through muddy button grass and heath (I'd hate to do it in the wet!). Great views up to the Western Arthurs as we came across the Razorback (see pic 21). As Rupert said, a week to walk the W Arthurs tops and a day to return along the plain.
We'd seen a bushfire burning all morning and, as the day progressed, the grey smoke plume rose to such heights that the top turned into white thundercloud. At 1.30pm a forestry helicopter landed beside us, a fellow alighted with stake, sign and sledge hammer and banged the 'track closed' sign right behind us (see pic 22).
A well deserved long lunch at Seven Mile Creek, where we met a lone lady walker returning from the Western Arthurs. Still 28°C in the shade by the creek, so it would have to have been over 30 in the sun. Another party of 5 arrived from the S as we prepared to leave, having been turned back by the chopper.
A further 2.5hrs across the hot button grass plains (around 15km for the day) to camp at Wullyawa Creek. Around 7.45pm 3 guys arrived from the Western Arthurs, with stories of many walkers being choppered out due to the fires. I was pretty crook that night.
Day 9 - Sunday 18 February 2007
And so on to Junction Creek (see pic 23), where we had to scrub our boots and gaiters when crossing the creek to prevent the spread of plant disease. Scrubbing brushes supplied. Further parties of 3 and 2 heading S as, at that stage, the Port Davey track and A- and E-Moraine tracks to the Western Arthurs were still open. The track gradually improved. Lunch around 12.30pm. Smoke and cloud continued to develop behind us (see pic 24). Rupert's shot of salt replacement powder got me through the afternoon. However, I'd made the decision to leave my friends at the end of the track - to ask Cynthia (our travelling-at-the-same-pace lone walker) for a lift to Hobart or to wait for the Tuesday bus. I had pressed through mental and physical limits several times and was not coping well with the heat (of which there would be more on the exposed Mt Anne circuit).
We reached Scotts Peak (the end of the track) at 3pm. A funny area, alternating between dry, dusty, stony, grim-looking areas and beautiful lush rainforest. Rupert signed us in and released me. Cynthia graciously responded to my request. A funny feeling, but I knew I'd be a liability to my 3 companions and Bob and Megan who were driving in to meet them for the Mt Anne circuit. Home responsibilities were beginning to weigh on my mind, too.
As we left, a forester closed the entire area serviced by track south. There were at least 19 lightning strikes and fires and a number of walkers were being flown out. As we drove towards Maydena, the entire SW quadrant was filled with smoke and rolling, thunder tops. Coke and a chilled sandwich never tasted so good at our first stop.
Into Hobart around 6pm, dropped at The Royal Exchange Hotel, which must have been a great joint in its heyday. A phone number to ring on its front door, but I had no phone. So a walk to the Hotel Grand Chancellor where they believed my credit card, rather than the way I looked and smelt. But no end-of-walk clothes. A phone call and a wander back to pick them up, returning via an establishment which sold Cascade Pale Ale. A harrowing wait while QANTAS got me out the next morning (at 100% fare increase) via Sydney. A looong shower (I felt a little guilty thinking of my companions), then plenty of salt and fat via fish and chips from a punt on the Hobart Docks.
What a huge, challenging and unforgettable experience! One has to experience the place - no photo or story can tell it. Thank you so much, Rupert for your leadership, encouragement, companionship and understanding. Thank you also to Dave and Marg, and Bob and Jenny, for your friendship and support. I left 4.5kgm behind.
Lessons - for a relative newbie at all this, get serious! Get fit; vary food (no more TVP!) and tea as well as coffee; unrefrigerated salami; salt replacement powder. EPIRBs work - carry one always. I don't know what to do about B, H and W - I guess each challenge pushes my limit.
Distance: ~67km. Climb: Enormous. Time: 9 days.
